PDA

View Full Version : 52 Year Old Topper Model 158 410ga. Shotgun



Falcon
04-16-2012, 02:52 PM
I was at my mom & dads today and decided to check up on my 410 that my father borrowed 15 years ago because he can't shoot anything larger since his double shoulder surgery. This 410 was given to me by my grandfather when I was only 4 years old. I was shocked when my dad handed it to me. :yikes:

It is covered in rust, the wood has lost all it's shine and is bare in several places, and there is rust or something inside the chamber. The gun has not been oiled or cleaned in properly 15 years. :crying: I was fuming mad. This was the first gun I ever owned and learned to shoot on. It broke my heart guys, I never let a gun get in this condition.

Now I need help from all the experts on how to salvage my gun. The wood I'm not concerned about, I can easily take care of it. It's the metal I'm worried about. What can i use to stop and clean off the rust without destroying the blue on the gun?

Here's a few photos so you can see what I'm up against.

http://i1085.photobucket.com/albums/j432/chris8052/My%20410/DSC002212.jpg

http://i1085.photobucket.com/albums/j432/chris8052/My%20410/DSC002222.jpg

http://i1085.photobucket.com/albums/j432/chris8052/My%20410/DSC002242.jpg

http://i1085.photobucket.com/albums/j432/chris8052/My%20410/DSC002352-1.jpg

http://i1085.photobucket.com/albums/j432/chris8052/My%20410/DSC002282.jpg

http://i1085.photobucket.com/albums/j432/chris8052/My%20410/DSC002342.jpg

http://i1085.photobucket.com/albums/j432/chris8052/My%20410/DSC002312.jpg

Oh, almost forgot, there does not appear to be a serial number on this gun. At least I've yet to find one. Any Ideas where to look?

PHMadness
04-16-2012, 03:21 PM
Probably doesn't have a serial #. They weren't required back in the day. Not sure when it was made mandatory, 1968 maybe?

As far as rust, 0000 steel wool and Kroil. The name escapes me but Brownells is selling a "warm" blue that you hear the metal with a heat gun and apply the blue that looks very promising to me, I have not tried it yet though.
The wool and Kroil may be enough by itself.

Sorry to see your treasure rusty. I've had similar experiences with other items.

Tsalam
04-16-2012, 06:15 PM
Falcon, save yourself a lot of grief and contact H&R and make arrangements to send the receiver in and get a brand new barrel. It will cost you about $75. Check the pricing and procedures on H&R1871 site. If the gun has a serial # there will also be the last three numbers of the serial on the side of the barrel bottom. If you get the new barrel, that would only leave you to clean the wood and receiver face where the firing pin is. I would bet if you do send the receiver in to H&R, they will probably clean up the rust on it for you. Good luck. I love those old H&R's.

MoMan
04-16-2012, 07:32 PM
Both are good ideas!!
I had an old H&R Topper (12 ga.) back in the early 70's! It was all I could afford back then, man I loved that gun! Unfortunately I sold it to a friend of mine that I used to hunt with before we moved to CA. Certainly wish I still had that gun!
Good luck with your project!

gun sane
04-16-2012, 07:33 PM
As much as I understand your irritation, Falcon, I hope you're not holding a grudge against dear old dad. If you compare lists, I'm sure the expense of raising you is far greater than the restoration cost of your old bang stick. Just sayin'. :wink:

teecro
04-16-2012, 07:43 PM
Probably doesn't have a serial #. They weren't required back in the day. Not sure when it was made mandatory, 1968 maybe?

As far as rust, 0000 steel wool and Kroil. The name escapes me but Brownells is selling a "warm" blue that you hear the metal with a heat gun and apply the blue that looks very promising to me, I have not tried it yet though.
The wool and Kroil may be enough by itself.

Sorry to see your treasure rusty. I've had similar experiences with other items.

Kroil and BRASS 0000 wool (or finer) were the first things that came to mind while reading the OP.... Even completely dunking the metal parts in Kroil have been known to work wonders.

Falcon
04-18-2012, 04:38 PM
As much as I understand your irritation, Falcon, I hope you're not holding a grudge against dear old dad. If you compare lists, I'm sure the expense of raising you is far greater than the restoration cost of your old bang stick. Just sayin'. :wink:

Huh???? :confused: I never said I was pissed at my dad. I said I was fuming mad as in he neglected a gun that was loaned to him by me. I never let him know how I felt. I can't count the number of times that I've been blamed for something by him that I did not do. One time he crashed his John Deere tractor and then tried to blame me for the damage the next time I used it. Luckily I saw the damage before hand and asked mom and she told me all about what happened. I was ready for him when he tried to blame it on me. Its a game he plays, called blame some one else for his mistakes so it's no big deal.

Falcon
04-18-2012, 04:47 PM
Falcon, save yourself a lot of grief and contact H&R and make arrangements to send the receiver in and get a brand new barrel. It will cost you about $75. Check the pricing and procedures on H&R1871 site. If the gun has a serial # there will also be the last three numbers of the serial on the side of the barrel bottom. If you get the new barrel, that would only leave you to clean the wood and receiver face where the firing pin is. I would bet if you do send the receiver in to H&R, they will probably clean up the rust on it for you. Good luck. I love those old H&R's.

Don't think I want to go that far. I'll work on it and clean it up the best I can. It is a work gun, not a show piece. It has hunted hard and will continue to as long as it will last. I just want to stop and prevent any more rust.

PHMadness
04-18-2012, 04:51 PM
I can't count the number of times that I've been blamed for something by him that I did not do. ................Its a game he plays, called blame some one else for his mistakes so it's no big deal.
I'm thinking I wouldn't be hanging out with my dad much.:confused:

Falcon
04-18-2012, 05:21 PM
I'm thinking I wouldn't be hanging out with my dad much.:confused:

Thats why I live 50 miles away.

PHMadness
05-19-2012, 07:44 PM
How did this turn out?

TuxAir
05-19-2012, 08:58 PM
Man o man.Did I ever read that topic title wrong. :D
I was expecting a 52 Year Old Top Model but I cast eyes on the sorry state of your H&R. My FIL's Marlin 336 (in 35 Rem) was in real bad shape after being put away dirty and never cleaned since the early sixties. Marlin did a great job finding me some replacement parts. The receiver plates however were not to be had. I used a lot of kroil baths and super fine brass wool. The finished product was good but not great. About 75% of the blueing remained. I ended up having it re-blued.
The wood will be the easy part for you. I took the existing finish down and and used tung oil to restore the wood's finish. It looks great.
If I were you, I would contact H&R before you do anything.

Falcon
05-19-2012, 11:26 PM
I took it down as far as I could, cleaned it with Hoppes like normal, got alot of the rust to stop as I gave it an oil bath and just stopped. I am really discussed about it and just don't want to deal with it right now. I guess I'm gonna have to though as I do not want it to get worse. :frown:

dookiejenkins
07-21-2012, 03:57 PM
Falcon, I have the same exact shotgun that I want to re-blue. How did you remove the barrel?

Falcon
07-22-2012, 06:52 PM
Falcon, I have the same exact shotgun that I want to re-blue. How did you remove the barrel?

Remove the fore grip, you will pull out at the top of the fore grip and it will pop off. The break open the gun and it will unhinge. It's real simple to tear it down, you will end up with 3 pieces. Thats af far as I take mine down, I havent figured how to pull the trigger assy.

As Far as an update on the gun I've really not done anything else as I got busy with work and haven't had time. As soon as it gets closer to Dove season I will get more in the mood to finish it. It has taken lots of Doves.

Falcon
08-20-2012, 09:53 PM
I have been working some on the .410 again and it's coming along, not gonna be what it was but it will be OK. Now, I want to re stain the stock and fore arm, all of you that have done this tell me, what do you use to strip off the old finish? I think I want to go to bare wood and stain it a little lighter this time.

PHMadness
08-20-2012, 10:16 PM
When I did that .22 stock a couple of months ago I used Bix (I think?) stripper and while it is still wet from the rinsing I rubbed it down with vinegar. It's supposed to pull stain out of the wood. Being wet like that also had the side effect of raising all but the very worst of the dents back to flush. I let it dry a couple of days and commenced to sanding and staining then used Birchwood Casey Tru Oil and Armor All like the other thread suggested. It's smooth as glass and rock hard now.
The only thing I would do different is use a sealer before staining, it came out ok but I think the color would have been more even had I sealed it first.

Falcon
08-23-2012, 08:48 PM
When I did that .22 stock a couple of months ago I used Bix (I think?) stripper and while it is still wet from the rinsing I rubbed it down with vinegar. It's supposed to pull stain out of the wood. Being wet like that also had the side effect of raising all but the very worst of the dents back to flush. I let it dry a couple of days and commenced to sanding and staining then used Birchwood Casey Tru Oil and Armor All like the other thread suggested. It's smooth as glass and rock hard now.
The only thing I would do different is use a sealer before staining, it came out ok but I think the color would have been more even had I sealed it first.

Thats what I'm looking for, very good tip to seal before staining. Did you use an iron the help raise the dents? I've heard steam will help.

PHMadness
08-23-2012, 10:39 PM
I did use an iron on a couple of spots, but you will be amazed how much is raised just by being a little wet. I have used an iron on several others too. I don't use the steam setting on the iron, I just leave it dry and get the wood itself wet in the area. What raises the dent is the water in the wood flashing to steam and expanding the structure. I don't think spraying steam on it does anything myself. The old man that showed me how to do it could raise a dent that looked like it needed Bondo.

PHMadness
08-23-2012, 10:41 PM
Another tip I have for the sanding stage is a couple of block pencil erasers and some short chunks of dowel rod for the paper. Makes a big difference keeping it flat and the lines crisp.

Falcon
08-24-2012, 11:25 AM
Another tip I have for the sanding stage is a couple of block pencil erasers and some short chunks of dowel rod for the paper. Makes a big difference keeping it flat and the lines crisp.

Thanks, I'm used to sanding flat wood but not a stock. Good tip.